Maintaining a native habitat garden includes pruning, weeding, and possibly seasonal planting. The first 2-3 years after installation are the most critical and labor intensive time for maintenance. During this time, water regularly. As plants mature, you will only need to water during times of excessive drought. Build a strong team to help, and try to include the school maintenance staff. Include signage that defines your wildlife area to avoid mowing or other issues. Also consider creating a compost pile. Soil produced will help reduce future costs and give you a place to put your brush and trimmings. Finally, keep a log record of your work.

Monthly:

• Make sure to have a water source available for wildlife. Keep it clean and filled (if in a dish – every couple of days during the summer months)

• Repair/clear trails - Remove branches that are blocking walkways or other access for visitors (people and wildlife)

• Remove weeds/invasives

• Monitor for the following:

• Bermuda grass and other invasive plants' spread. Consider creating a “most unwanted” list of invasive plants

• Rainfall

• Observations of native species (contribute to citizen science projects!)

• Vandalism and maintenance issues

Seasonal

Fall (September-December)

General

• Order field equipment or tools

• Take down hummingbird feeders

• Pull up soaker hoses and put them away for winter (optional) and make sure not to water too much. Water needs are low in the cool and rainy winter months.

Plants

• Harvest seeds for seed collection!

• Plant wildflower seeds September - November

• Plant trees and shrubs as early as mid-November until mid-March. Consider joining Tree Folks in a tree planting event to learn how to plant trees correctly

• Move plants or trees while dormant (December)

• Mulch areas that need it

• Let leaves stay! They’ll provide natural compost and mulch

• Don’t cut back plants until February – old growth provide shelter for wildlife

• Fertilizers are not needed – mulch provides nutrients; many native plants grow better without chemical fertilizers. If used, choose organic and use only once before the growing season

Winter (December-March)

General

• Make labels and signs for habitat

• Clean out current nest boxes and make repairs; build new feeders, boxes, benches

• Service pond equipment, if needed. Look for damage to liner or pump

• Add aquatic insects or gambusia (mosquito fish) in March, if needed

Plants

• Start planning for spring planting in February, for flowers in March/April

• Do a spring clean-up. Cut back plants, remove frost-damaged stems for compost, but make sure to leave seed heads.

• Plant trees before mid-March so they can be established before summer

• Start seeds in the classroom

• Mulch areas that need it

• Let leaves stay! They’ll provide natural compost and mulch

Spring (March-June)

General

• Repaint or repair structures

• Clean and repair tools

• Work with students to create a “Field and Care” guide for the summer months that gives volunteers all the information they need to help maintain the garden (see summer below for what they’ll need to know)

• Develop a schedule for summer maintenance. Ask your school groundskeeper to assist if possible, or develop a rotating scheduled of teacher/staff/parent volunteers. Summer school classes could also play this role. Make sure to define who, when, and how often.

Plants

• Great planting time in march for perennials and annuals, but you’ll want everything in the ground before June (and not too close to summer break) Native plants, during the first year, will need some extra attention, with someone coming to water weekly during the summer. After that, you should be able to leave the area on its own.

• Plant trees until around mid-March so they can be established before summer. For new trees, water once a week, 2 gallons per inch diameter of the trunk at check height during the summer. Afterward, they’re fine on their own

• Do a spring clean-up. Remove frost-damaged stems for compost.

• Apply mulch to discourage weed growth if it hasn’t already been applied

• Mowing (optional): if you have a wildflower meadow or pocket prairie, mow the area down to 4-6 inches after seeds have dropped (or after you have collected them) to remove its “weedy” look and allow summer and fall bloomers more space to grow. Clearly mark all areas that should not be mowed in spring or summer.

Summer (June-September)

General

• Make sure those responsible for habitat maintenance during the summer months know:

• Where to find tools and water source

• Can ID plants vs. weeds

• Can ID insect pests and know non-toxic ways to remove/deter them – manual removal, spraying with water, releasing beneficial insects

• Can ID beneficial insects

• Have the number of a contact person to call if there are problems with the habitat

Plants

• To encourage blooming, water once per month in absence of rain.

• Native plants, during the first year, will need some extra attention, with someone coming to water weekly during the summer. After that, you should be able to leave the area on its own. To encourage blooming of established plants, water once per month in absence of rain and avoid overhead watering when possible (washes away nectar and insects!)

• For new trees, water once a week, 2 gallons per inch diameter of the trunk at check height during the summer. Afterward, they’re fine on their own.

• Remove spent seed pods if you want to tidy things up, or just leave them if they are not in pathways